아르누보와 아르데코 쥬얼리의 조형적 특성

Abstract

The study aims to examine how social and cultural backgrounds affected jewelry amid changes, relationships between costume and jewelry and the chronological characteristics of jewelry in the era of Arts Nouveau and Art Deco. In the Age of Art Nouveau, like clothes, jewelry had pastel shades using plique-a-jour or guilloche patterns, which was affected by Impressionism. As importance was given to color rather than jewelry itself, semi precious stones such as platinum were often used, but pearl and diamond spread widely to the middle class due to pearl culture and mine discovery in South Africa. In this age, garland style jewelry was especially in harmony with clothes of light material, and all-white Edwardian jewelry was popular as well. In line with Bouffanted hair and big hats, decorated hair pins and combs developed. In the Age of Art Deco, jewelry showed sleek line in strong color contrast with stylized geometric form, which was affected by Cubism and Bauhaus. During wars, people used silver or other cheap metals a lot instead of platinum. Costume jewelry became popular due to bakelite development and exoticism. In this Age, as styles change to little crochet caps and short hair style, long earrings and sports jewelry with an increase in sports activities became popular. As people enjoy wearing slim clothes without pockets, handbags decorated with jewelry became an important item. Affected by Great Depression, a bold size and color of jewelry was popular, and multi-function jewelry was used a lot. With a change in women' lifestyle, new style jewelry appeared, representing that in the Age of Art Deco, functions were more stressed than in the previous years.